So to cut to the quick, please enjoy the photos here and let them do most of the talking.
After making the new moldings, I used the form they were made on for support while I sanded and faired them to near perfection and then painted them. I had wanted to paint them with Awlgrip linear polyurethane 2 part paint, but found the catalyst I had in the garage had gone bad. So, at the last moment and out of time. I ran to Home Depot and got a spray can of their best Rustoleum's gloss white (when in doubt, throw money at it- :)
($5.97/can rather than $2.99). A couple of coats, an hour or so apart and then let them dry for 2 days.
Installed them with Truss Head Stainless Steel #8 x 3/4" machine screws and 3M's 101 Marine Sealant as caulking on the underside of the molding -run as a bead 1/4" from the inner edges. Also used a dollop or pea sized ball of the grey putty that is used for window caulking and Dicor's Kit, pressed out to the size and thickness of a dime maybe and layed over the inside of the screw holes. This way the screw was sealed first by the grey putty, and then next and all around by the 3M marine sealant. Not sure how the 3M sealant is compared to the Dicor, or GE's off the shelf stuff at Home Depot, but Dicor Sealant runs about $8-10/per tube.... 3M's 5200 is more of an Adhesive and runs 9-14/tube....the 3M 101 Marine Sealant ran me $17 per tube. Hope its as good as it's price reflects! Note that the new moldings and all this sealant effort was applied OVER the existing Eternabond tape on the edge. I felt there was no need to remove the Eternabond but to bury it from the elements for the rest of eternity.
Held molding up to motor home and pre-marked motor home with pencil, then taped the surface on the motor home first, so clean up was easy and precise.
..............CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE IT!
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5 comments:
Looks great Ron! Nice work! very professional looking!
Brian aka Ripsnort
Ditto that for your rebuild Brian. You took a slightly different problem and helped many by your documentation of it. Hat is off to you!
Happy 4th!
ron
This is the best post for a repair job of a cab over I have seen. I have read/looked over almost all of your directions/images and will most likely do the same thing on my class C. It would be great if the trim molding for your cab over were the same size as my 1995 Coachmen Freelander. Yours looks fantastic. The best I have seen.
This is the best post for a repair job of a cab over I have seen. I have read/looked over almost all of your directions/images and will most likely do the same thing on my class C. It would be great if the trim molding for your cab over were the same size as my 1995 Coachmen Freelander. Yours looks fantastic. The best I have seen.
Thanks Matt. As it says on the top of the page, this work was documented so: "our photos and words might help another in our predicament." Those moldings were made 8 years ago. They still look fine and are doing what they were meant to do...cover the corner well enough to keep water OUT! Looking Good and being good at the same time.
Again, thanks and good luck on your project. ron
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