Yesterday, I scrambled to get a coat of paint on the front of the Cab Over section of the Motor Home. I started way too late for a good job, applying the first roll of paint at 4:45 pm. The sun was going to set in 2 hours, but I had run out of time.
CLICK ANY PHOTO FOR FULL SIZE !
Today, when I drove over to apply the second coat, it was evident that the first coat 'blushed' from moisture and cold. The Awlgrip paint should not be applied below 55 degrees and last night it dropped lower.
I prepped for the 2nd coat today at 1 pm and got the second coat on early. Today the sun was strong although the air was not 'warm', but at least the wind was gentle. I rolled on the 2nd coat, and did not tip it off with a brush, allowing for a slight stipple from the 1" x 4" foam roller, instead of the streaks from the brush. It looks fine.
Bought new bright LED clearance lights, but had no time to install them. Will do that on the return trip too.
Drove it home tonight. Feels good to be back behind the wheel and noticed no squeaks any more coming from the cab over (nice and tight now that all is new!) I'll sleep well.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
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9 comments:
:) i did a quick google for 'overcab repair' and yours was the first link I came to..
tonight I see the rot-monster has got my c-class 1984 chevy Midas...
I may have some questions :)
John, London
Sorry for not responding quickly. Had my settings wrong and did not get alerted. All fixed now, how can I help you? ron
Hello
My name is Jodi. i come across your website on rebuilding the cabover on your RV. I just would like to say Thank you. You were a big help on rebuilding the cabover for my RV. I have a 1992 Tiogo that has some water damage in the cabover and was not sure how to go about fixing it. And i was not going to spend 5 to 7 thousand dollars to have a shop repair it. So me and my hushand fixed it our self. Your website was very nice for a reference picture, comments, etc. was a big help. i was scared at first but the more we got into it. I felt better and better about the project. Now its all back together and just want to Thank you for posting your project online. I cant wait to see the roof be repaired. i will we watching.
Thanks again
Jodi, California
Thanks for taking the time to post these. They have really helped! I have a 96 Tioga that I have to do this to.
I was wondering about the removal of the floor above the cab. Mine is the outer gelcoat shell, 3/4" of styrofoam and some thin plywood (maybe 2 ply).
Can you tell me a little about how that bottom came out ?
There are photos of what I found from the beginning in a post dated Dec.3rd.
The floor of the Cab Over on my 91 Tioga, was made of 3/4" plywood, covered on the outside with Filon(a thin fiberglass material that is applied with a contact type cement. On the inside the 3/4" plywood was covered with a 3/16ths layer of interior paneling, glued and nailed. As seen in the photos, I peeled up the thin paneling, to find the 3/4" plywood rotten up front and certainly on the corners. The front actually fell apart as the lighter interior material were removed.
Again, look at the posts of Dec. 3rd and Dec. 14th to see the transition from "first sight to replacement wood preparation".
Motorhome manufacturers might use different materials over time as they improve methods or try to confront 'issues'. All you can do, is roll up your sleeves and start. Take lots of photos and take notes and measurements and if you have the luxury, take it slow, so you get the total picture and confidence as you go.
Hi Ron,
I hope you will find this post 4 years after your project and respond... I'm at the final stage of this project on my 95 Shasta class C, installing a new Filon panel on the front. I thought this is what you had done, but after rereading, see that you glassed over the original panel. A local shop stocks this stuff, so I decided to go that route due to the rough condition of the original and the elimination of the cabover window. The shape, size and construction, of my class C are almost identical to yours. Anyway, the two curves, upon test fitting, seem quite severe and likely to cause the Filon to break or rip. The distributor knows nothing about installation... Would you have any ideas for installation?
Thank you,
A.C.
hello A.C. You and so many others seem to be redoing these older coaches successfully! good for you and them!
-No, I did 'not' use new filon. I gently peeled the old material off, sanded the backside of it with a disc orbital sander, until all old glue was removed.. used a bit of fiberglass cloth and resin on one 3" crack on the front drivers side corner and rebonded it to the new wood I installed. I used Contact Cement/original formula, but layered it up with 2-3 coats of glue prior to gently rolling the OLD filon back on the original front curve.
IF.... I was to use new Filon, I would make sure it is very warm so it's flexible and very very gently (using stips of wood from one side to another and maybe some friends... to slowly move the material around the bend leaving excess material to be trimmed off the sides.. later. Other than that, i would call the Tech Support for the company that makes Filon and ask their advice..
ron
Thanks Ron. It's because of guys like you paving the way and detailing your work on the internet that so many of us are adapting our skills and becoming self empowered again, like generations gone by... I can't express enough gratitude! Now to find a garage around here (lakewood, co) for some warmth. Fall has roared in plunging the temps in the last week.
Well, thanks....for your 'thanks'! ;)
I grew up with adults that always passed on what they knew. Yes, the way it used to be but not everyone today is interested in learning. True?
I have done the same with my other sites http://csysailboats.blogspot.com
http://memoryrose.blogspot.com
Passing on how and why I did projects and my thoughts a bit beyond that. Glad it is accepted and useful to whomever!
Stay well, stay warm... and good luck on your project.
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