Saturday, March 22, 2014

Fort Davis, Texas


Ft. Davis was established to help secure the western civilized front of the U.S. population growth in the mid 1800's but was vacated during the civil war.  After the war, it was re established but only lasted until 1891, as railroads and progress had already connected with California, and the troops were no longer needed to protect against banditos and Indian raids.  The land used to build the fort, had been leased and not owned by our government, so after 1891, the structures were rented out as housing and soon fell into disrepair.


Not a glamorous story but the truth.

When the government decided to get involved to save what was left of the buildings, a decision was made to only safe structures that were 70% intact.  Hence, many of the original structures that had not been rented later on, by the original land owner,  had fallen into near total disrepair and were not worth rebuilding. When wooden roofs rotted, the adobe walls soon washed away and began to crumble.

The dozen or so unmarried officer quarters, and half dozen of the married officer quarters, plus two long enlisted mans barracks were about all that got federal funding for a semi-rebuild.

Only one of the dozen Officer Quarters was brought back to original condition for display, the others were just stabilized.



The fort had been the base for cavalry, infantry and buffalo soldiers at various times.

 Mostly, they protected rail roads, ranches, telegraph wires and other infrastructure.  It was rare that fighting or chasing Indians were tasks at hand.

Weaponry used at the fort was on display inside the walls of one partially saved building.  Several cannons and a gatling gun and other equipment were in fine condition.
                                                                   Gatling Gun

The hospital was partially restored, with some rooms totally redone and displayed as if it was 1875, with doctors desk, examination tables and medical tools and books at hand.

Buildings not restored were made safe and stabilized in one way or another.

During my afternoon visit, a display of firearms used during the period, gave an example for kids, of the time it took to reload a bullet into an 1883 rifle.  All the kids were told to hide single file behind the big tree.  On que, the soldier would start to reload his gun, and the kids were told to run as fast as the could towards him and knock his hat off!  The kids 'Loved' this game and of course won.  They got the message and it was a funny exercise for all watching.

The small town of Ft. Davis is basically beside the fort and has about as many residents now as it did then.  A few restaurants, hotels and stores for food, hardware small schools and other necessities for life fullfil the needs of the population and tourists.

It's an interesting little place and glad I came back.  Stayed once again, at the Davis Mountains State Park a few miles N.W. of the town and once again, tried my luck at a night time visit to the MacDonalds Observatory 15 miles further into the mountains.  This visit was partially successful as the night sky was only partially blocked by clouds..  The last visit a few years ago was a failure.  Totally blocked sky cancelled the evenings viewings.



The area around Ft. Davis is either rolling hills or mountains.  One or the other but both have their own beauty and both extremely relaxing and quiet.

Short video clip here on a clear but windy day a few hundred yards East of the Fort.


Friday, March 21, 2014

Seminole Canyon, Texas


We stopped here a few years ago, only to find out that the Canyon itself was not open to the public unless you took a 'guided' tour, which was only offered on certain days.  This was reasonable, as so many in the past have left graffiti that often destroyed the ancient petroglyphs and pictographs........along with the natural beauty of the area.
However for us, this meant we drove a long way to get to this State Park and then had nothing to view, so moral of this is not to arrive on the wrong day.  This time however, I called ahead.. Lucky for me they were offering tours daily for the next 2 weeks due to Spring Break campers.

Seminole Canyon is noted for natural caves along a drainage basin of huge proportions, where nomadic people and later Indian tribes left evidence of their lives and thoughts in primitive art.

The word Seminole actually is attributable to the black soldiers that fought some Indians here in the 1800's.  The black troops were called Seminole or Buffalo soldiers.
 The 'canyon' is actually a drainage basin for water running off the rocky land after showers.  We were told, that while this basin is dry most of the time, when a thunderstorm does occur, this basin will fill with 20' of water running down to the Rio Grand.
 Looking South.
This archaeological site is up in the cliffs side, under a large overhang.  Evidence seems to show this site was used for temporary shelter and probably religious ceremonies, but not permanent settlement as was Mesa Verde.





 The art spanned thousands of years and many different tribes or indigenous populations.





The campground itself, was on a hill near a section of the long abandoned Southern Pacific Railway.  This structure was a baking oven used during it's construction in the 1880's was a hundred feet or less from the old rail bed, so assume this was a major camp during construction days and probably because the rail road had to build a wooden bridge over a tributary to the canyon-a time consuming chore.
 I spent several days in Seminole Canyon hiking it's trails.  This one was an 8 mile loop.  A bit over my planned attempts for daily hikes, but I decided to go for it.  At times, the rocky trail and careful footing necessary slowed me down but all and all it was a great day.
 Nature fought its way to sunlight here and there.  Stunted growth but surviving.


 On the trail there were droppings from grey foxes.  They seem to like marking trails for some reason.  All of it was full of javelina hair.  Javelinas, normally nocturnal, seem to be the grey foxes primary food source, although I often saw plenty of cotton tail and mule rabbits.
 Evidence of Petroglyph etchings were found along the hiking trail if you keep your eyes open.  The square is believed to be a representation of their 'world' North, East, South and West.
Also, I noted fossils of sea creatures in rocks in and near the trails. (CLICK TO ENLARGE ANY OF THESE PHOTOS) 
 Sadly, later on I talked with other hikers who took this trail and none of them noticed these..  They seemed hell bent to just 'hike' and talk as if on a treadmill at their local health club.
They really missed a lot!

Viewed here about 3 miles into the hike....the Seminole Canyon, south of the caves leads down towards Mexico and the Rio Grand.

Finally at the Rio Grand looking east.  The river was normally not this full, but a dam was built in the early 70's I believe, down near Del Rio, Texas, creating a reservoirs that now holds the water back.
 Looking west on the Rio Grande.   Native Americans ate the red flowers and when the flowers turned to seeds, as these are now,  they were crushed and used as flour.
 The cliff here is about 60' above the river.  Off on a ledge, I noticed a large cactus, not seen on this hike growing from a crack.  Reddish purple.

 Our rangers or Border Patrol use horses on occasion to check on things.  Out far from the road, was this water troth...I presume for them.
At times, there was a small spot that must hold moisture and here things grew and life seemed to do well.

Seminole Canyon State Park, Texas.

Lost Maples, Texas

 Pete loved this country driving.  There was always something to see. Cattle are his favorite, but horses, goats and of course another dog will boost his spirit too, but here, he got his first view of emu's... THAT, threw him.  He looked and whined.  Like "heck that's a big bird!"


 Leaving Bastrop, I had booked a couple of nights at a special campground, tucked into a canyon west of San Antonio called Lost Maples State Nature Area.  Sounded interesting and the location again put me into a natural setting and only a half days drive west.  This fit my parameters of trying to drive 200 miles or less per day in a casual sight seeing manner and end up at an area with it's own special beauty.  Plan also was to stay for 2 or 3 days at each location, to chill out and absorb what was there.

 Lost Maples SNA had great walking trails in rugged country and some that were more gentle.  Several streams ran together to form one of decent size that ran near the campground.  Serene setting, clear water and very quiet except for the sound of birds.. The canyon was an oasis for them and this was a place 'birders' will enjoy.  Their sounds created a very relaxing environment to say the least.

 I got a chance to chat with a senior couple traveling by bike, from St. Augustine, Florida to the Pacific/San Diego actually.  At least that was their hope. They were from New Hampshire and this was their 2nd attempt.  First attempt, they collided on the road with the result of her breaking her collar bone.  Trip ended!  So now, a few years later, they are trying again.
 There sure was a lot of effort for them every day, not only the strenuous effort peddling in this hill country, but often strong winds to contend with but also rain and time consuming setting up and breaking down of their campsite each night and morning.  Add to that personal issues and meals.  However they were smiling broad smiles and that is what's important.
 A surprise was to hear of the Lone Star Motorcycle Museum nearby.  Keep in mind, we are miles and miles from any large population center..  this is out in the country, where there are only 2 or 3 small towns of minimal population.  The draw here, was this was motorcycle country.  Riders commonly travel these roads for the shear enjoyment of the roads and the scenery.
 The owners, Australian by birth, had retired to a piece of land here and in their lives had collected a large and wonderful collection of motorcycles.  So, they built a building to store them in and so began the Lone Star Motorcycle Museum.  Of course, they had a few Harleys, but also Indians, Enfields, Nortons, BSA's, Triumps, Brough's a Ducati' and yes, even a CB 750 4 cylinder Honda (I had owned one way back and loved it... but also on display were a dozen more brands that I cannot remember at the moment.
All of them look to be in running condition. He did have a machine shop in the back of the building.
The wife also had a little restaurant set up serving Aussie dishes and some beverages.  I was surprised to see a half dozen patrons already inside, the morning I showed up but even more so, when I left, there was over a dozen folks there taking photos and chatting with the owners.  All 'Bike Talk', lively and animated.  A fun place!
 I had never seen a Brough but he had one on display.  Interesting that Lawrence of Arabia died on one.
 Many Indians, of varying years and models were on display. One, two and four cylinder models all in wonderful condition.

 The span of years was incredible too, which made it so interesting to view the changes in technology from early to later years.  Just look at this Head "Lamp" on this early BSA (Birmingham Sword and Arms) Company.  And...the fuel delivery system!
 OK, fun was had sitting on an old Harley with side car.  My parents dated on models like this.  Side shifters, wide handle bars, fun basic machines that pushed the envelope at the time.

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Bastrop, Texas.............the land of the great fire; 2011

I had followed the news back in 2011 of a raging fire in Texas.  The news stressed that this was a fire of emence proportions and treatened extremely large tracts of forest lands and the town of Bastrop Texas itself.

Since then, I have on occasion searched out news of Bastrop and have found some interesting videos on YouTube of the rebuilding process going on by volunteers and young paid staff....kind of like the original CCC group concept.

Sadly, the forest was severly damaged.   Miles and miles and miles of prime forests were destroyed.

I decided to go there on this years trip west to see what man has done to assist in it's stabilization and future renewal.

I must say, I was impressed to see the efforts going on but it will take decades of labor intensive effort by a dedicated staff to assist nature.
Some wonderful projects have been accomplished on the walking trails, such as this magnificently built walking bridge on one of the trails and evidence of chain saw activity is everywhere, clearing downed trees, especially as they fell on pathways throughout the park.

Pete, my pooch and I walked the trails on 2 days and enjoyed the silence of the forests but sadly, the vegitation is slow to return and with the exception of a field mouse and a small lizard and a few birds, the animal life was slim.

The downtown of Bastrop is, as many other small towns, now converted to artsy galleries and restaurants and bars.............and lawyers, banks and real estate agents.

Enjoying a short walk down Main Street, I met up with this Texas cutie!  She was standing outside a gift shop/gallery, but would not give me a glance... 

Mission Tejas

Decided to get away from Nacogdoches for a break and went west on Hwy 21 40 miles to Mission Tejas State Park.  It was not a big park and parking my 40' rig took some extra thought, but all worked out well.

The important thing was to get out into the woods again and enjoy nature, walking quiet trails and listening to birds and leaves and other gentle sounds not found often in town.

The Mission dated from earliest attempts by the Spanish government and the church, to lay claim to lands west of the Mississippi, before France did.

The missionaries were too harsh to the Indians and were forced by them to leave...abruptly.

A reproduction of the missions church or meeting building stands high on a hill and was interesting, but moreso to me was the ability to walk on part of the original Camino Real...the Kings Road.

                                                                   Original foot path.
                                                             Original wagon road.

Originally a path probably of native American origin running in a basic east west direction, it became a route for the Spanish on horseback and later their wagons for trade and expansion into the south of Texas from Mexico.

Sunday, February 23, 2014

Fun Day

Taking a break and just relaxing, playing around or just goofing off is needed.  

Today, it came together, as I opened my big mouth and asked a man who is really into guns, to allow me to accompany him the next time he has the opportunity to shoot.

Well, today was the day.

Yes, fun we had.  He was so gracious and spent time trying to help me NOT look so bad...

Bottom line?  We had a lot of fun!  The Gent was just that...a true gentleman.